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Barga’s missing buses and magic busgirls

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View from Barga's Fornaci Station

Beautiful Barga taught me two valuable travel lessons:

1. Never trust a Tuscan timetable

2. Never underestimate the kindness of strangers

Heading home from a day of pounding Lucca’s pavements, we left the train at Fornaci and wandered towards the bus stop.  Barga’s two stations, Galicano and Fornaci, are several miles from the town – life is too slow to make public transport a pressing issue.

Forty minutes later, despite the timetable’s insistence that the last bus of the night was due, our guts told us otherwise. So off we went to fill said guts at the nearest trattoria where we’d later ‘phone a taxi. Simple.

As we polished off our tiramisu and settled up, a linguistically painful conversation with our waiter ensued. His concerned expression immediately told us there was a problem. ‘Mi dispiace. C’e non taxi stasera. Perche la partita.’ Italy were playing a big footie fixture and the local cabbies were going nowhere.

Did I mention that the heavens opened in the most spectacular fashion? And that the road home was a steep, muddy, unlit track?  Our worried waiter disappeared into the kitchen returning with an aproned lady. Despite her English and my Italian, I deciphered enough to realise that she was offering to drive us back to our apartment herself!

The journey flew by in a surreal blur. Many ‘troppo gentiles’ were gratefully uttered, petrol money was refused and heartwarming lessons were learned about the extraordinary hospitality of our Tuscan hosts.

This post has been entered into the GranTurismo HomeAway Holiday-Rentals travel blogging competition on the theme of local travel.

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About

Jools Stone is a freelance journalist and marketer based in Edinburgh. He can also be found stoking the social media engine for the Train Chartering Company and writing regular travel and lifestyle articles for the Scotsman newspaper. http://about.me/joolsstone

19 Responses to “Barga’s missing buses and magic busgirls”

  • Very nice story! Your #3 lesson could be: Calcio (and also meal times) – never to be messed with in Italy. I had a similar experience in Naples. Our problem was that the train schedule was correct and the train was on time, probably the one and only time it has ever happened in Italy. We missed the last train, and the kindness of bus drivers made it back to our hotel. Good luck with the competition.

  • Thanks Kathy, another time in Italy (possibly on the same trip) we missed a train as we sat on the platform laughing at others rushing to get it. We assumed that it wasn’t our train, duh!

  • This is a great story, Jools. We are always amazed at how kind people can be when we travel. It definitely makes us strive to be as friendly and accommodating to tourists in our own city.

    Very uplifting!
    Tandem World recently posted..Q&A With K&C – Live NOW!

  • Aren’t one of the best parts of travel the unexpected meeting of people along the way? You reminded me of a similar post I could write but instead of missing a train, a full moon turned the sea into something too dangerous to take our dinghy out on and a kind stranger with a 4X4 took us on uncharted territory.
    Nicole recently posted..Auto shopping- island style

  • Thanks Corinne, and to you too. That 250 word count was surprisingly hard work!

  • Thanks folks, I like to believe in a bit of travel karma. Edinburgh is flooded with tourists in August and I always try to help those looking a bit lost!

  • Sounds intriguing Nicole, and rather more dramatic than my little story! Thanks for stopping by.

  • Very nice story and just the kind that I needed to read today. I wasn’t feeling terribly positive about a few things, but your experience put a smile on my face and got me to reflect upon the kindness of strangers that I’ve encountered in my travels and everyday life. Thank you for that.
    Cathy Sweeney recently posted..San Francisco Travel Tribe October 27- 2010

  • Thank you Cathy, yes sometimes people reaffirm your faith in human nature don’t they? Sorry to hear you’ve had a bad day but glad this has helped a little. :-)

  • Jools, I enjoyed reading your post. I found Italy to be just like that! I waited 10 minutes for the last bus and when it failed to appear 10 minutes after its scheduled time, I started walking, then after making 100 metres saw the bus I had been waiting for drive past, (NB. a head banging emoticon or Rammstein track would fit well here). On that occasion I walked to my destination in Pisa, took me all of 30 minutes. Barga is a lot more remote.
    When I looked at this subject I found that I had given hospitality to some travellers and received hospitality from others on so many occasions that I had lost count. I too believe in travel Karma.
    Good luck with the GranTourismo 250 word challenge!

  • Thanks John, ah yes the vagaries of public transport in semi-rural Italy. I suppose it’s part of its charm. Barga is just such an idyllic place it seems churlish to grumble about it. Thanks for the GT wishes, same to you. I think I got it to 250 on the nose in the end, one of the toughest posts I’ve written though!

  • [...] Barga’s missing buses and magic busgirls [...]

  • Great story, and so easy to see how it can happen :)

    And congratulations on winning a prize with this story!!

  • Many thanks Madeline. Lousy buses aside, I wouldn’t change a thing about Barga!

  • Felicitations Jools! 250 words of prize winning excellence. OK, too much gushing there, but it was great anyway.

  • Cheers John, but you shoulda been up there on the podium with me!

  • Hello! Do you use Twitter? I’d like to follow you if that would be okay. I’m definitely enjoying your blog and look forward to new posts.

  • Hi, not sure if this is an odd spam tactic, but just in case it’s not you can find me on twitter as jools_octavius.